Javanese weddings are deeply symbolic, filled with rituals that represent the sacred union of two individuals. One of the most iconic aspects of a Javanese wedding is paes makeup, a highly symbolic design applied to the bride’s forehead. This makeup is more than just a beauty enhancement; it carries profound meanings and plays a significant role in Javanese culture and wedding ceremonies. The typical ‘Javanese’ paes wedding hair and makeup are divided into two types: the Jogja ‘paes’ and the Solo ‘paes.’  So, what exactly are those?

This article explores the cultural importance of paes makeup, its variations, and how modern brides can incorporate this traditional element into their wedding.

Cultural and Ceremonial Importance of Paes Makeup in Javanese Weddings

In Javanese weddings, paes makeup is not simply a decoration. It’s an integral part of the bride’s transformation, symbolizing her readiness to embrace her new role as a wife. Traditionally reserved for royalty, this makeup carries strong connotations of dignity, purity, and the bride’s elevated status as she enters marriage. Each line and curve serves as a blessing for the couple’s future, ensuring a prosperous and harmonious marriage.

The cultural significance of paes makeup is especially prominent in the regions of Yogyakarta (Jogja) and Solo, where the makeup is regarded as a key element of the wedding ceremony.

What is the Javanese Paes?

According to the Indonesian dictionary, the term ‘paes’ means beautifying a bride’s forehead. This includes enhancing the eyes and eyebrows, cleaning hair on the forehead, etc. In simple terms, paes refers to the intricate lines and shapes applied to the bride’s forehead and hairline using a black or green dye called pidih. These shapes are meticulously drawn to enhance the bride’s appearance, but more importantly, they symbolize key elements of life and marriage in Javanese culture.

There are two main styles of paes makeup: Paes Ageng from Yogyakarta and Paes Basahan from Solo. Both styles are striking, but they differ in their patterns, shapes, and ceremonial meanings. There are several paes makeup from Yogya and Solo:

Paes Yogya is divided into six types:

• Paes Ageng 
• Paes Ageng Kanigaran
• Paes Ageng Jangan Menir
• Yogya Puteri
• Pakualaman Temple
• Ksatriyan Ageng

On the other hand, there are five kinds of Solo Paes:

• Solo Basahan
• Ratu Solo
• Taqwa Solo
• Langenharjan Solo
• Mangkunegaran Solo

When we talk about the wedding culture of Central Java, the paes are one of the most important elements that need detailed preparations. Paes is a binary for brides that are applied on their forehead to their hair. The paes curves on a forehead are known as cengkorongan. Both Yogyakarta and Solo wedding paes usually use black pidih, excluding paes baseman from Solo, which applies a green color. 

Patterns of Paes Yogya and Solo

Every shape in paes makeup carries deep symbolic meaning. Here’s a breakdown of the main elements found in Paes Yogya and Paes Solo:

Gajahan (Panunggul)

Located in the center of the forehead, the Gajahan is a U-shaped curve representing Trimurti (the three divine energies of creation, preservation, and transformation). This shape symbolizes dignity, wisdom, and virtue, blessings that the bride will carry into her married life.

Citak

The Citak is a small diamond shape placed between the eyebrows, symbolizing the third eye of Lord Shiva. It represents clarity of thought, wisdom, and the bride’s future role as a mindful and intelligent wife.

Pengapit

These two curves, located on either side of the Gajahan, provide support to the central element. The Pengapit symbolizes the support of the family and community as the bride steps into her new role.

Penitis

Smaller pointed curves next to the Pengapit, the Penitis represents the couple’s determination to fulfill their shared goals and responsibilities in marriage, including family and financial matters.

Godheg

Placed near the ears, the Godheg symbolizes wisdom and the ability to self-reflect. It serves as a reminder for the couple to stay grounded and humble, while also wishing for future children.

Menjangan Brows

The Menjangan (deer) shape of the bride’s eyebrows symbolizes agility and elegance. This element signifies the bride’s ability to navigate challenges with grace and resourcefulness.

The Meaning Behind a Javanese Bridal Makeup

In Javanese culture, paes makeup is more than just a beauty ritual. Each element of the design carries a blessing and a wish for the bride’s future. The makeup represents the virtues she will need to embrace in her new role as a wife, including wisdom, dignity, and resilience. It also serves as a reminder of the sacred bond of marriage and the responsibilities that come with it.

The paes makeup also reflects the bride’s readiness to step into her new life, supported by her family, her community, and her cultural heritage.

Are There Rituals for Brides Before the Wedding?

Javanese brides often undergo rituals before their wedding day to prepare themselves physically, mentally, and spiritually. One such ritual is siraman, a ceremonial bath that cleanses the bride’s body and soul in preparation for marriage. This ritual is followed by dodotan, where the bride is dressed in a traditional kain to signify her readiness for marriage.

Brides are also encouraged to fast and meditate in the days leading up to their wedding, ensuring they remain calm and focused. These rituals serve to center the bride and prepare her for the sacred union ahead.

A healthy body keeps brides looking beautiful and glowing from the inside and out. It’s also important to pay attention to the products and techniques applied during the makeup to ensure that the overall makeup stays neat and gorgeous till the end of the wedding ceremony and reception.

Adding a Modern Touch to a Traditional Bridal Look

While many brides choose to stay true to the traditional paes look, some prefer to blend old and new elements for a more contemporary feel. Here are a few ways to modernize paes makeup without losing its cultural significance:

• Color Adjustments: Instead of the traditional black lines, some brides opt for lighter, more subtle hues such as gold or silver to match their overall wedding aesthetic.
• Minimalist Design: For a more understated look, brides can choose softer, less defined lines while keeping the symbolic shapes intact.

Modern Hairstyles: Traditional paes is often paired with the Sanggul (Javanese bun), but many brides now choose sleek, modern hairstyles that still complement the paes design.

Bringing Paes Makeup into Contemporary Weddings

Modern brides often want to honor their cultural heritage while embracing contemporary trends. Paes makeup can be blended seamlessly into a modern wedding by working with a makeup artist who understands both traditional and contemporary styles. Here’s how to achieve that balance:

• Simplified Lines: Keeping the essential shapes of paes while softening the edges can make the look more contemporary.
• Updated Accessories: Instead of traditional gold jewelry, brides may opt for minimalist or bohemian-style accessories that still complement the paes makeup.
• Custom Paes Designs: Some brides choose to adapt the traditional paes shapes to reflect their personality or wedding theme, while still maintaining the cultural essence of the design.

FAQs: Common Questions About Paes Makeup

How long does it take to apply paes makeup?

Paes makeup can take 1 to 2 hours to apply, depending on the intricacy of the design and the experience of the makeup artist.

Can paes makeup be customized?

While the traditional elements are often kept, some brides choose to customize their paes by adjusting the colors or adding subtle modern touches.

Where can I find a paes makeup artist?

If you’re planning a wedding in Bali or elsewhere, it’s important to find a makeup artist who is experienced in traditional Javanese makeup. Contact Bali Wedding Price for expert recommendations.

The Importance of Paes Makeup in Javanese Weddings

Paes makeup is a key element of Javanese wedding ceremonies, embodying centuries of tradition and cultural symbolism. Each line and shape represents blessings for the bride’s new life, from wisdom and dignity to family support and resilience. By incorporating paes makeup into their weddings, modern brides honor their heritage while embracing the sacred meaning behind this ancient practice.

We recommend sticking to traditions, especially if there’s a sacred ceremony included in your wedding. However, if there aren’t any ceremonial processions, you can opt for a more modern look, according to the bride’s request. 

Some brides may prefer the classic and simple traditional look. But for others, you can always choose the outfit that follows the newest trends that are currently popular and create a chic fusion of classic and modern. But keep in mind that the paes itself shouldn’t be modified by any means.

If you’re planning a wedding and want to include traditional elements like paes, get in touch with the experts at Bali Wedding Price for guidance on the best makeup artists and wedding planners when it comes to traditional weddings.